The following information is provided as-is

Newer Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep cars can be a bit tricky when installing our QCChJ-1 harness for Parrot Installation. Three problems are not uncommon.

Problem 1- The Parrot kit does not power up

The Parrot Kit does not light up after installing our harness and turning on the vehicle - or the Parrot's behavior is erratic. This can be due to the Parrot not receiving 12V switched voltage properly through the harness. On 2005+ Durangos, Magnums, Jeep Grand Cherokees and perhaps other models, you need to tap a separate source for 12V switched (ignition) voltage such as the fuse block or switched cigarette lighter. See the following diagram:

Please tape over the end of the unused cut orange wire leading to the Parrot plugs.

Problem 2 - Mute is not occurring or is not complete

Music or noise is still emanating from some or all speakers or subwoofer during a call. This can usually be cured by pulling apart the 2 bullet connectors on the salmon colored wire of our harness. Attach the Parrot yellow mute wire to the side that mates properly. Tape over the unused side of the salmon colored wire. This will force a total mute during a Parrot call and only allow Parrot audio to get through to the speakers.

Problem 3

Even though the QCChJ-1 is not designed for Chryslers with outboard amplification, it is sometimes not clear which models have this and which models don't. If you are getting no Parrot sound out of your speakers or if the sound is faint or too loud (and your Parrot kit is otherwise working fine), you can try this mod, but understand that this will void the 30 day return warranty on the harness. Most individuals have had success with the following modification.

The following info is a proposed fix to get you good audio even though you are installing our harness in an amplified car (for which it was not designed). Professional installation is recommended and this info is provided totally as is.

1) Pull apart the salmon wires mating bullet connectors. The Parrot yellow mute wire attaches to the salmon wire's mating bullet connector.  The other salmon wire side with bullet is taped over. You do not use the Parrot's 3 Mute-in receptacles or any of the thin line out wires if present on your Parrot kit.

2) You cut the white and white-black pairs coming out of our white and gray connectors.  The side going to the connectors gets jumpered white to white and white-black to white-black. Solder connections and use tape or heat shrink tubing.

3) The white and white-black from the double ISO that used to go to the gray connector now goes to a 4-8 ohm communications speaker.  White goes to the (+) terminal if speaker offers polarity.

4) If you now find that you are getting full muting and good Parrot audio out of the speaker, you can now go to step 5 optionally

5) Instead of using the communications speaker, identify a speaker in your vehicle that you would like to use for Parrot audio (a center channel dash speaker is always nice if present, or a right door speaker can be used).  Detach the two wires going to that speaker (a good place to break those wires is at the right passenger kick panel so you do not have to remove the door pane itself.  Run the two wires which WERE going to that speaker to the white and white-black wires in the diagram marked "Optional see text".  Observe polarity, the white is (+).  Now connect the white and white-black which were going to your 4-8 ohm communications speaker in step 3 and instead extend those wires and attach them to the 2 wires LEADING to the car speaker.  You are now using the Parrot mute relay to switch between the stereo audio normally going to that speaker and the Parrot audio during a call. 

Best of luck getting your harness working to your satisfaction.